Cradle of Democracy: Day 3 of 3 in Athens
May 23, 2010
Day 3 of 3 in Athens, Greece
Grace and I awoke early to pack, check out, and visit the National Archaeology Museum. Once again, we arrived far before the crowd – the museum felt as if it were exclusively for our own private tour! (My good planning and tendency to naturally awake at the crack of dawn this weekend certainly paid off.)
Along the way, we had a tasty cheese pie and two versions of Spanakopita. A few pictures below of some of our culinary delights are below! Alas, I love Greek food, the culture, and the history – an admiration since childhood now further reinforced.


The National Archaeology Museum really exhausted me – we saw so many great treasures that by the end, my head felt flooded with newfound facts about the artifacts. A few highlights are described below, along with some pictures.
1. Death Mask of Agamemnon: Found in 1876 by Heinrich Schliemann in the royal shaft graves at Mycenae, the mask is believed to belong to the legendary Greek leader Agamemnon! Granted, the authenticity of the mask has been challenged, but what an amazing piece of artwork in it of itself!

2. Statue of Zeus (Poseidon?): The debate over whether the statue represents Poseidon or Zeus hinges on the lost thunderbolt or trident held in the right hand. I’m under the opinion that it makes much more sense that the statue is of Zeus as no one holds a trident that particular way.

3. Statues of Kouroi: These sculptures of youth are used to represent the god Apollo. We saw so many of monumental scale!

4. Ancient Amphorae and Vessels: Depicting scenes from ancient mythology, we saw so many beautiful vessels and containers!

Here’s a picture of Grace with a Statue of Dionysius (dedicated to my dearest father who delights in the revelries associated with him).

Grace and I then went back to Monastiraki Square to experience the famed Athens Sunday flea market and for me to enjoy a 2-euro soulvaki from one of the most adored stands. The souvlaki was so tasty – fresh meat grilled to perfect with ripe tomatoes and onions on a warm pita. I devoured it happily despite not being hungry at all!
The flea market is a bit overwhelming to the point at which I did not feel particularly inclined to buy anything. Grace and I crawled along the packed streets, evading the street sellers hawking everything imaginable, from fake I-pods to broken used electronics. We finally arrived Kerameikos, the ancient cemetery of Athens – the exact place where Pericles delivered his funeral oration in 431 BC that captured the patriotic sentiment of most Athenians at the height of the city. (Check out this site for a translation). Below is a picture of Kerameikos.

We found it too hot under the direct sunlight so we left Kerameikos and walked to Thisio Park and then further south on Apostolou Pavlou to Filopappou Hill, an area of great historical significance and natural beauty. Notably, we saw:
1. Hill of the Pynx: To imagine that on this very hill, the Athenian democratic assembly officially gathered to discuss matters of grave importance to the state. Any citizen could speak at the meetings of the ekklesia and once the deliberations were completed, the council proposals were voted upon requiring a quorum of 6,000 citizens to satisfy the majority. In fact, historians estimate that the Pynx had enough standing room for as many as 20,000 citizens! In fact, it was exactly at the Pnyx that famous speakers such as Demosthenes, Aristides, Themistocles, and Pericles addressed the assembly, marking this otherwise unassuming site one of the fundamental birthplaces of democracy. Notably, as a debater myself, I want to point out that here on this very hill, Demosthenes delivered his famous Third Philippic in 341 BC before the Athenian Assembly – one of the best known speeches, which you can read here.
2. Prison of Socrates: Although unlikely, popular tradition says that this is where Socrates was held and where he was forced to drink the hemlock which killed him. (Even if this is not true, it’s still wonderful to imagine!) Nevertheless, this site did indeed hold prisoners of the state during the ancient times, and more recently, during WW2, the caves were used to hide treasures from the Acropolis and the National Archaeological Museum.

3. View of the Acropolis: In climbing upwards to Filopappou Monument, we had a beautiful view of the Acropolis! Under a perfect blue sky, Grace and I took some magnificent pictures and ruminated over the majestic view.

A bit overheated, we trudged our way into Plaka to rest at a café for the next two hours, sharing an iced chocolate a delectable almond cake with ice cream, swathed in honey. (We opted for snacks today rather than proper meals!) Grace and I bought some matching jewelry and a few gifts before taking the metro to collect our stored bags at the hotel before heading off to the airport.

Alas, has it been just three days? I feel as if I have been in Greece for weeks! Each day passes so meaningful – no hour wasted, whether we’re enjoying beautiful ancient sites, making a new discovery, or simply cherishing our sister time together. For Grace and me, Athens is only a tantalizing glimpse of our future journeys to come. Next time, we’ll go to the islands and see the natural beauty of the Mediterranean, along with other ruins of ancient city-states. I am particularly interested in visiting Crete.
As we leave Pericles’s city, I feel a resounding sense of contentment. We not only saw the sights, but for a short time, we lived as Athenians live! I must one day return, next time with my dear parents, especially my dad who would have cherished this trip beyond words.

























